Just an Update

Hey there readers!

I'm sorry as I've been busy with work recently. Some new installation and an insane assignment with and insane deadline to complete by none other the boss. Anyway, just to update on my next posts, I'll be talking about...

1) My new 1800mm tall rack!
2) My multi tanks and the filtration system (Posted about filtration but I'll be editing it further)
3) My recordings, water top ups and water changing when the tanks were being cycled
4) My Albino Metal Red Lace and Albino Full Red

So folks, stay tuned.

Cheers!!

**Coughs...Fine I've been busy with other stuffs too.

Who can resist taking a picture with Puss? LOL

Hamburg Matten Filter

I was planning what sort of filters I will be using for the 14 breeding tanks I'll be having. The thought of a central sump came to mind. But then disease outbreak will be a disaster. At first I was thinking of using one of those cheap internal filters powered by an air pump; I used them before on my 45cm and it works wonders. The media they give, I'll switch to Substrat Pro or perhaps Biohome. It has worked for me in my other two tanks before.

 

Felix of AQ then reminded me of a filter that I happened to read about on Aquatic Quotient sometime in mid of the year. I totally forgotten about it.

 

I went on to research further, how it works and what sort of benefits it'll provide. Felix told me that Green Chapter (GC) uses this sort of system too.

 

The construction is easy peasy. Here's what I used.

 

1) Fine Filter Pad

In Singapore, they don't sell those really fine pads. I had to settle with Ocean Free. Do take note if you are going to get the pad, try to find those fine ones and not those porous type. It should be 5cm minimum in thickness. If you can get you hand on Poret. Import it. If you buy a lot, like for breeding tanks, then you can tell them to cut for you in size.

 

Poret Pads - Check them out!

 

 Pictures from Swiss Tropicals that sells Poret Pad.

 

2)  PVC Pipe & Elbow

I gotten the grey 16mm pvc pipe. Meant for plumbing. I was thinking of the black pvc pipe meant for electrical. But I was concern as I wasn't sure if they have added anything to it. I'm no chemist but sometimes I find the internal part of the black pvc having a powdery substance. It could just be coincidental but since the pvc will be hidden from view, colour was not important.

 

BuyandFix (For Singapore) - You get your DIY stuffs from here! 

 

Buy or borrow from a friend a pipe cutter like this.

3) Air Tubing

I already have like what 10 meters of this tubing that I keep. I prefer using the black ones.

 

4) Air Pump

Now, base on advice on the web, you can either use an internal water pump (small one) or an air pump. The guideline, it must be x2 of your tank. Meaning, if it's 20 liters, then you need a pump that's x2. (40L/Hr) I'm not too certain for air pump. Water pump sure. Air pump, get something big. I was recommended the HiBlow. But man! The price of this pump can get you a chiller!! But it's definitely a good pump. One pump and it can supply to a number of your tanks without losing any "strength" So on a low budget, I settled on the existing air pump that I have. Output unsure. It's a Dymax AP700. Dual outlet.

 

The mother of all air pumps! LOL

 

Right, so first, cut the pad to width and height of your tank. Cut a square on the top. This is where your PVC Elbow will sit. Keep the pad you cut off. This portion, you may cut it a little and put it back after placing the elbow. It'll look "neater"

 

 

Cut the pvc pipe to size. Not too short; not too long. The height from bottom of tank to the bottom of pvc pipe; just make it 2cm.

 

 

Now, this depends on you. I have yet to research whether using an air stone or just the tubing is better. The obvious difference, smaller bubbles comes out using an air stone while just using the air tubing alone; the bubbles is bigger. In terms of "power" I don't see any difference.

 

Drill a hole, slightly smaller in diameter of your airtube. Without air stone, just drill roughly 2cm of the pipe. Insert the tube. Do not pull it out of the pvc pipe. It must remain inside the tube.

 

If you are using an air stone, it must be small to be inside the pipe. Drill a hole somewhere in the middle of the pvc. Insert tube till it comes out at the end of the pvc pipe. Pull it out. Insert the air stone and pull the tube so that the air stone goes into the pipe. Do not pull it all the way. The air stone should be all in but just sitting about 1cm from the opening.

 

Attached the end of tube to the pump. Place the elbow. Rest the elbow on the pad where you cut the "square". Place the square cut pad on the elbow to cover it. Adjust and make it flush.

 

I placed the water level at half the pipe or just 3/4 of the pipe.

 

Done.

 

Now, make sure the length of the airline tubing from pipe to pump is not too long. Try to make it as short as possible if you are using a cheap pump like me.

 

Like any other tanks, cycle it. By the 3rd-4th week, test the water parameters. Once it's at the desired level, add fauna.

FYI, there are other "design" to this, some use it as a corner filter. Some even use it as a bottom filter.

I did not go into why this filter is good or how it work; no one explains it better then this website. The author is unknown; some German guy but Jan Rigter has kindly translated it into English. Please check it out and research further on how other hobbyist did theirs.

Matten Filter Explained

Good luck!

 

 

 

Fluval C3 Hang On Power Filter

Disclaimer: Please note that you should do your own research before committing to any piece of equipment for your aquarium. The review is based on my own preference and maybe bias to other equivalent equipments in the market.

 

Introduction

Late last year, I stumbled upon the C4 Hang On Filter (HOF) online. I had already purchase an Eheim Pro 3 cannister but just wanted something to try out. Below are a couple of reviews that I stumbled upon on YouTube.

 

Fluval C4 HOF Review 1

Fluval C4 HOF Review 2

 

As my current C4 is being used right now; I'll show the C3 instead; the smaller version of the C4. Fluval HOF C Series comes in three sizes, C2, C3 and the mother of all HOF, the C4. I can't find a C1 on the shelf; not pretty sure if they are being sold. I don't think it is on the market either.

 

Anyway, if you compare the other HOF in the market like Gex and Eheim Liberty, Fluval C series is unique. It's the only HOF in the market that comes with a trickle chamber.

 

The C3 is recommended for tanks between 75L up to 190L and filters about 580L/Hr.

 

Equipment

When you purchase the HOF, it comes in a square box and is sealed with a plastic. Ensure that it is.

These are the items if I remember correctly is what you get.

1. Filter Cover
2. Filter Case
3. Leveling Device
4. C-Nodes
5. “U” Tube
6. Telescopic Intake Tube
7. Bio-Screen
8. Mechanical Frame
9. Chemical Basket
10. Impeller Cover Assembly
11. Impeller
12. Biological Trickle Chamber with Cover
13. Poly/Foam Pad
14. Activated Carbon
15. Motor Unit with Seal Ring

 

5 Stage Filtration

The first thing you'll notice with this HOF is it's sleek design. Its one of the main factors I chose it to be honest. The HOF provides a 5 stage filtration system.

2 Mechanical

1 Chemical

2 Biological

 

The first and second stages which is Mechanical is the Poly Foam pad. The pad has two sides, one is finer than the other. Though it is not necessary to have it change to the same poly foam provided by Fluval, it is recommeded. It's less than $10 for 3 pieces. Beats having to cut the size of the pad in order for you to fit it in. The slot which houses the pad is easy to remove as it slides out easily for cleaning or changing. There is a clever device on the sides that pops up which tells you its time for cleaning/changing.

 

3rd stage is Chemical. In this slot is where you have your activated carbon. I didn't put it in though and instead replace it with Biohome media. This slot is great as you can customise and put whatever media you want. I don't use carbon or charcoal on any of my filter. Only use it when I want to remove medication from the tank. It is also use for my hospital tank. So you can put that away and place your own media.

 

4th stage is the Bio Screen. This is where your Beneficial Bacteria (BB) will colonise. If you bought this filter new, just use it. Once its too dirty, throw away. It's not necessary or a must have item to replace. The filter works fine without it.

 

5th stage, below the Bio Screen is the trickle chamber. The Bio Screen which not only acts as a place for your BB, it also blocks debris from entering the trickle chamber. The trickle chamber is where you place your C-Nodes. You can of course use your own media. But the C Nodes works just as fine. Don't overfill the chamber. As this will result in the cover to bend. Water will not distribute evenly.

 

You can adjust the hof a little to control its flow. Other than that, I ensure the water level in the tank is just slightly above the lip (where the water comes out) The reason why I do this is that if you have space between the lip to the water level, the water drops and this causes the bottom to stir and you don't want that to happen. It happens to me as I chose the filter which is larger. Say I can use a C2 but instead I go for a C3. It's stronger of course. But the surface agitation is fantastic and I love it. More gas exchange; more oxygen goes in. For planted, you might just need to increase the bps a little. Perhaps by an additional 1 just in case but adjust accordingly to suit YOUR needs. You don't want to kill your fish.

 

Pros: Unique, sleek, easy to clean, silent, customisable and its the only HOF in the market with a trickle chamber.

Cons: Expensive compared to other HOF on the market.

Conclusion: I love this filter a lot and I strongly recommend it. Fluval doesn't have a big market here in Singapore as compared to Eheim so you might run into problems down the years if you need to replace certain things. You can however get the poly pads and bio screen easily.

 

PS: My apologies as I might have missed out some details about this product, if so, please ask and I'll answer base on what I know and my own personal experience on the product.

 

Or you can go to this link which gives a more comprehensive detail of the product.

Amazon - Review of Fluval C Series

The box the equipment comes in.

Left Pic: Shows the side of the box showing the items in the filter.

Sleek and clean design.

Inside the box, you'll find this.

The first & second stage. The poly foam pad. When you put your filter on the tank,

the finer part of the pad should be facing you.

The chamber where you place your carbon or any other media you like.

The trickle chamber. Container to hold the media, the bio screen,

the cover with holes and the CNodes

I placed the water line above the "lip" This causes waves and more surface agitation.